Making Enamel Jewellery –
Art, Craftsmanship, and Precision
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Enamel is a glass-hard coating, fused onto metal through a technique with over 4,000 years of tradition. By blending time-honoured expertise with modern methods, our enamellers create exquisite pieces of jewellery. Only a select few experts, including us, possess the mastery required to produce this globally sought-after enamel jewellery.
What is enamel?
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Raw material
Glass powder
Enamel is the collective term for all glass-like coatings on metallic surfaces. These coatings are traditionally applied through heating techniques, such as hot-dip enamelling, or by employing modern methods like UV or cold technology (cold enamel).
Our fire enamel is a specially developed coating, crafted exclusively by us. The enameller meticulously applies layers of coloured glass powder, firing them onto the metal at high temperatures. As the glass melts, it fuses seamlessly with the metal surface, creating a luminous, smooth, and remarkably resilient finish—distinguished by its vivid colour and captivating transparency.
We employ versatile enamelling techniques, offering a rich spectrum of colour nuances, from vibrant tones to delicate pastel shades. Our jewellery designers harness this diversity to create striking effects and craft truly distinctive pieces. The deep, glossy finish of the enamel harmonises elegantly with our gold alloys, resulting in jewellery of timeless allure.
How is enamel used in jewellery?
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Amulet
Pearl clasp
Enamel refers to all glass-like coatings applied to metallic surfaces. These coatings are traditionally created through heating techniques, such as hot-dip enamelling, or using modern methods like UV or cold technology (cold enamel).
Our fire enamel is a specially developed coating, crafted exclusively by us. With precision and artistry, our enamellers apply layers of finely ground coloured glass powder, which are fired onto the metal at high temperatures. As the glass melts, it fuses seamlessly with the metal surface, resulting in a luminous, smooth, and exceptionally durable finish—distinguished by its vivid colour and captivating transparency.
We employ refined enamelling techniques that offer a rich spectrum of colour nuances—from bold, vibrant hues to soft, delicate pastel shades. Our jewellery designers harness this diversity to create striking visual effects, crafting distinctive pieces that radiate individuality. The deep, glossy finish of the enamel harmonises elegantly with our gold alloys, producing jewellery of timeless sophistication and allure.
Impressions from our enamel jewellery production
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Our enamel jewellery undergoes an eight-step process.
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Applying the enamel
The enameller applies finely ground glass powder to the metal surface. The colour is applied in several layers to achieve the special depth and luminosity of the enamel. After applying each layer, the enameller heats the piece of jewellery in the oven and bakes the enamel into the metal.
Enamelling techniques Guilloché, Cloisonné and Plique-à-jour
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Guilloché enamel – elegant engravings under glass
Guilloché is a refined technique in which the metal surface is intricately engraved before the enamel is applied. Using a specialised machine, the engraver carves complex, repetitive patterns into the metal surface. The enameller then meticulously applies layers of coloured glass powder over the engraved design, firing the piece multiple times until a transparent enamel layer emerges.
The guilloché technique imparts remarkable depth, creating a captivating interplay of light as the delicate engraved patterns shimmer beneath the enamel.
Cloisonné – the art of enamelling
Cloisonné, also known as cellular enamel, is a traditional technique for decorating jewellery and other precious objects. The term derives from the French word “cloison”, meaning “partition” or “compartment”—aptly describing the method’s principle: fine metal strips form tiny, enclosed cells, each filled with coloured enamel.
The fusion of delicate metal lines and vibrant colours gives cloisonné its distinctive charm. This technique is ideal for creating masterpieces featuring organic forms, floral motifs, or structured patterns.
How does the cloisonné technique work?
The enameller begins by soldering slender wires or metal strips—typically gold or copper—onto the surface of the object. These fine partitions outline the desired design: from flowers and tendrils to geometric shapes or abstract compositions.
Next, the enameller fills each “cloison” (cell) with powdered enamel, carefully assigning different colours to create the intended pattern or motif. The piece is then fired, polished, and refined—following the same meticulous steps as other fire-enamelling techniques.
Plique-à-jour – transparent Enamels
Plique-à-jour is an exquisite enamelling technique, perfected in France during the 14th century.
The term translates to “letting in daylight”, perfectly capturing the luminous, radiant effect that defines this method. The enamel’s transparency evokes the beauty of stained glass windows, diffusing light in a spectrum of colours.
How does Plique-à-jour work?
The magic of plique-à-jour lies in its ability to produce vibrant, backlit effects—achieved by applying enamel without a metal backing. As light passes through the translucent enamel, it creates a mesmerising stained-glass effect.
This technique is among the most demanding in the art of enamelling, as the enamel is highly fragile and prone to breaking during firing.
A delicate metal framework—crafted from gold, silver, or copper—forms the foundation, creating cells or openings similar to the cloisonné technique but without a backing.
The enameller then carefully fills each cell with coloured enamel powder, firing the piece repeatedly until the desired hue and translucency are achieved.
In some variations, the artisan uses a temporary support—such as a thin sheet of copper—to hold the enamel during firing. Once complete, the support is removed, revealing the breathtaking transparency of the enamel.
Each cell is given the desired colour by firing carefully applied coloured enamel powder.
Variations of the technique use a temporary carrier material, e.g. a thin copper foil. After firing, the enameller removes the carrier to expose the translucent enamel.
Company owner Stephan Rivoir will be happy to explain to you on the phone, without obligation, how you too can benefit directly from our enamelling expertise: Simply fill in the form and request a telephone appointment!